— Fiona. If you can't eat it, it goes to the chooks.
ArticlesCalculatorsSite PlannerShopGoat fencing isn't a line in the dirt. It's what keeps your goats where they belong. Cut corners and you'll pay for it three ways: in AUD, in hours spent herding escapees back home, and in stress you carry around for days. Here's what actually works on the ground.
By Fiona Gallagher · permaculture designer · food, animals and preservation on 12 acres in Tassie
“After my first electric net snapped under a single persistent nanny goat, I learned that 12 acres demands heavy-duty livestock panels, not flimsy tape.”
Goat fencing isn't something you scratch into the dirt with your boot and call it done. It's the difference between a herd that stays put and a council fine that cleans out your wallet. I know because I paid for that lesson. A wandering billy landed me a fine that cost more than the cheap posts I tried to pinch pennies on. This guide tells you what actually works – not what's pretty on paper, but what holds goats in when they've decided they want out.
Bessie walked straight through the cheap mesh near Hobart, no hesitation—just curiosity and brute strength. A dodgy fence costs you twice: once in materials, once in headaches. A proper one keeps the herd in, protects the property, and meets AS/NZS 1170.1:2020. The council fine I copped for her little adventure taught me that lesson once and for all.
| Material | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Electric Fencing | Cost-effective, portable | Needs regular maintenance |
| Woven Wire | Durable, long-lasting | Expensive, heavy |
| Hardware Cloth | Secure, prevents digging | Difficult to install |
| Chicken Wire | Easy to install | Not secure against determined goats |
| Task | Frequency |
|---|---|
| Inspect for damage | Monthly |
| Check wire tension | Every 3 months |
| Replace worn posts | As needed |
| Test electric fence | Weekly |
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AUD $500–$1,500 for a 100m fence, depending on materials and complexity.
No. Chicken wire is too weak. Use hardware cloth or electric fencing instead.
Must comply with AS/NZS 1170.1:2020. Typically, 1.2m minimum height for adult goats.
Every 5–7 years, depending on weather and wear. Inspect annually.
Yes, but hire a professional for complex installations or steep terrain.
Yeah, goat fencing will cost you a fortune. That's just the reality of it. But it's money you have to spend, not money wasted, and I learned that the hard way. Pick materials that handle the price-versus-durability-versus-local-rules triangle without cutting corners. Skimp now and you'll be rebuilding in two years, believe me. Walk your fence line every month, tighten what sags, swap out what rusts. Catch it early or pay through the nose later. And before you buy a single post, ring your council about the Tassie regs, then grab your gear from Bunnings or Jaycar. Don't guess on compliance, because they will make you pull the whole lot down.
I always stick to AS/NZS standards and local council regs. Electric fencing needs correct installation, or you’ll zap a person or animal; I found that out when a goat slipped through a poorly grounded fence on my Tassie place and polished off the last carrots in the root cellar. Get a professional for the risky sections. Off-Grid Master isn't liable for damages caused by improper fencing.
Worth a watch: Goat Fencing Do & Don’ts | Goat Fencing Tips | Raising Goats | Goat Farm · Bois D’ Arc Kiko Goats
Honestly, there's no single fence that works for every goat and every block. What finally kept mine in was a combo of solid panels plus a hot wire offset, not just one type on its own. Goats test everything, so if your fence has a weak spot, they'll find it and you're back out there patching again.
Depends on your council and how tall the fence is, but in a lot of shires you do need approval once you go above a certain height or run it along a boundary. Worth ringing your local council before you start, because the fine for escaped goats is the bit that really hurts.
If your goats are anything like mine, every few weeks at least. Boards warp, wires stretch, and goats are constantly leaning, pushing, and testing the same spots. I crawl the line on a regular rotation now, otherwise I'd be out there every other day fixing something.
Doing it yourself saves a motza on labour, but you pay for it in time and mistakes. Half the stuff I bought first go round I wouldn't bother with again, so add that to the real cost. If you've got the time and a decent toolkit, DIY wins, just don't skimp on the bits that actually hold the goats in.
While many off-grid projects are achievable as DIY, certain situations require licensed professionals:
Always check local regulations and obtain necessary permits before commencing work.